Thursday, 29 March 2012

Trend Trackers Sources


1. Brown, Jacob. 2012. “Thinker, Tailor.” New York Times Style Magazine, Febuary 28. Accessed March 28, 2012. http://tmagazine.blogs.nytimes.com/2012/02/28/thinker-tailor/?scp=1&sq=siki%20im&st=cse#

2. Fashion Practice: the journal of design, creative process and the fashion industry. 2009. 1st ed. Oxford: Berg Publishers.
Frankel, Susannah. 2010. “Discreet luxury and courage on show in Paris.” The Independent, March 8. Accessed March 30, 2012. http://www.independent.co.uk/life-style/fashion/news/discreet-luxury-and-courage-on-show-in-paris-1917792.html

3. Grzybowski, Natalia. 2012. “Hybrid Spring/Summer 2012.” Natalia Grzybowki Blog, January 25. Accessed March 29, 2012. http://natalia-grzybowski.blogspot.com.au/

4. McGregor, Jenny. 2012. “An ‘Asia Capable’ Australia for the coming Century.” The Melbourne Review, n.d. Accessed March 29, 2012. http://www.melbournereview.com.au/read/142

5. Notes on Metamodernism. 2012. “Discussing Metamodernism 2.0.” Notes on Metamodernism, March 26. Accessed March 29, 2012. http://www.metamodernism.com/2012/03/26/discussing-metamodernism-2-0/

6. Sherman, Lauren. 2010. “Louis Vuitton Spring 2011: Cheetahs and Tigers and Pandas, Oh My!” Fashionista, October 7. Accessed March 29, 2012. http://fashionista.com/2010/10/louis-vuitton-spring-2011-cheetahs-and-tigers-and-pandas-oh-my/

7. Trendstop: Trend Analysis for Fashion and Creative Professional. 2012. “Print and Pattern: Chinese Empress.” Accessed March 29, 2012. http://www.trendstop.com/

8. Von Maltzahn, Constantin. 2011. “Sjaak Hullekes’ metamodern fashion.” Notes on Metamodernism, January 27. Accessed March 29, 2012. http://www.metamodernism.com/2011/01/27/sjaak-hullekes-metamodern-fashion/

9. Von Maltzahn, Constantin. 2011. “Discreet Luxury.” Notes on Metamodernism, August 31. Accessed March 29, 2012. http://www.metamodernism.com/2011/08/31/discreet-luxury/

10. Waller, Ken. 2012. “Is Australia truly ready for the Asian Generation?” Accessed March 30, 2012. http://theconversation.edu.au/is-australia-truly-ready-for-the-asian-century-4395

11. WGSN. 2012. “A/W 12/13 women’s catwalks: fancy textile analysis.” Accessed March 28, 2012. http://www.wgsn.com/content/report/Trend_Analysis/Materials/Inspiration/2012/March/a_w_12_13_women_s_catwalkscasualtextileanalysis.html


13. WGSNb. 2012. “A/W 13/14 menswear: colour usage.” Accessed March 29, 2012. http://www.wgsn.com/content/report/Design_Direction/Menswear/2013_Winter/aw13_menswear_colour_usage.html

When The East Meets The West

In October our prime minister announced that the ‘Asian Century’ was here, but for most of us we’re not really sure what this term actually means. In short it means a time for national change and growth. The scale and pace of Asia’s transformation is unprecedented and the implications for Australia are looking profound (Waller 2012). In terms of us surviving the GFC, well kind of, we can thank our near-north neighbours for that (Waller 2012). Asia has always been largely associated with the financial sector, however in recent times the creative industries has also began to form a working relationship with the East as well (The Melbourne Review 2012). And of course this is influencing fashion in a big way!

In an article by The Melbourne Review, Fashion designer Nicole Fraser states, “For anybody that is interested in a career in fashion, your first stop should be the Guangzhou fabric market.” (The Melbourne Review 2012). For Nicole, it was an economic imperative for her to head overseas, she says, “but then I was drawn to the kind of fashion that was being manufactured in Asia. Particularly in Japan, the clothing is about experimentation – its much more about ideas.” (The Melbourne Review 2012).

In terms of this trend trickling down to the street, above is Kim pictured wearing an eastern influenced kaftan. Fabric design such as satin, sequins and oriental prints ring true with an oriental flair. Asking why Kim chose this look, she responds with, "I like the look and comfort that this piece brings. I like that it's a little out there as well in terms of its design." An example of this eastern influence can be seen in Marc Jacobs Spring 2011 collection where his designs are pulled together with an oriental flair (Fashionista 2010). Think fringe, satin and sequins on a background of animal and oriental floral prints (Fashionista 2010). Trendspot.com also reports the forecasted trend  as panoplies of print that are romantically seductive in rich colours and intricate pattern (Trendstop 2012). The fabric and textile direction for this trend will include black as a strong background for delicate allovers, highlighted with contrast panels and binding (Trendstop 2012) (WGSN 2012). Colours forecasted will include majestic blues and purples, with gold acting as a royal highlight to oriental prints  (Trendstop 2012).So there you have it. Keep your eyes peeled for this up and coming oriental influenced trend!

The Modern Day Dandy

Forget post-modernism or modernism, metamodernism is a contemporary cultural dominance providing sense to our future generation (WGSNa 2012). Let’s face it; our world has had it pretty tough. From natural disasters, the global financial crisis, and political unrest - so I don't know about you, but I think it's all getting a bit old (Notes on Metamodernism 2012). But let’s not give up guys! Metamodernism is instead characterising a future full of hopefulness, essentially creating a romantic enthusiasm for the world that is to come (Notes on Metamodernism 2012).

A fashion trend stemming from this social, cultural and theoretical consumer trend is the emerging impression of the modern day dandy who uses his wardrobe as both armature and means of personal expression (Von Maltzahn 2012). The illusion of gender and the traditional notion of masculinity are challenged (Von Maltzahn 2012). The final product  - reconciliation between the masculine and feminine (Von Maltzahn 2012). Examples of this trend can be found in Dutch designer Sjaak Hullekes’ and German designer Siki Im’s latest collections. New York Times Style Magazine concluded that Siki Im’s collection was ingenious, by suggesting he has blurred the lines between masculine and feminine attire (Brown 2011).

So no boys, this does not mean that you can run to you sisters’ or girlfriends’ wardrobe and throw on the first skirt you can find. The metamodern man is all about combining a piece that has a feminine aspect to it, such as a fine linen jacket or the men’s ballerina pump, with a masculine piece such as a traditional tailored pant (Fashion Practice: the journal of design, creative process and the fashion industry 2009). A great example of this forecasted trend is pictured above. Here we have Samm sporting a pale blue linen shirt, which is very soft and fresh, and tailored shorts that are quite fitted to his body. The sleeves of the jacket are shorter creating a more contemporary look on a piece that could be quite traditional. WGSN’s Volker Kenttis reports that the seasonal colour moods for the metamodern man will include calm neutrals, sage and midnight blue broken up by canvas white and lilac grey, ochre, and shades of brown and intense red (WGSNb 2012). So boys get out there and channel your inner-metamodern man, don't be afraid to push some boundaries!

A Discreet Luxury

Stemming from the consumer trend of metamodernism and the dawning of a new romanticism forms the forecasted fashion trend of the ‘discreet luxury’ (Von Maltzahn 2011). Metamodernism surrounds the idea of oscillation  (Von Maltzahn 2011). This is the notion of contradictions - subtlety versus opulence, nature versus science  (Von Maltzahn 2011). Confused? Yes, don't worry, I was too! To put it simply we are going to see a trend of fashion that chooses quality over the brand, making you  the consumer feel better about spending that little bit extra.

Pictured above is Giorgia, who has paired a tailored yet softened jacket, with a floral, short but long, cotton dress. The colours and fabric of these pieces together create an aspect of romanticism and contradiction. The faded floral represents nature while the structured, simplistic space-like jacket represents the notion of science and futurism. This trend of romantic futurism can be seen through Natalia Grzybowski’s ‘Hybrid’ collection that combines elements of nature and technology (Grzybowski 2012). Grzybowski quotes, ‘Each design has been strategically designed and engineered for the body to eliminate textile wastage while creating a stunning visual’ (Grzybowski 2012). Her vision highlights the fashion trend of modish lenience toward environmental consciousness, durability of materials and corporate sustainability. Now to put it bluntly, the pieces Giorgia is wearing aren’t cheap, so I asked why she chose the more expensive pieces - ‘I wanted to spend my money on something worth it, something that was well made, that had quality to it. I want to invest my money in something that will last years. I thought this piece did that.’ 

WGSN.com reports that colours connected to this womenswear trend will include shades of ivory, variations of blue and midnight, nude, putty, cosmetic pink, and lilac, sage green, eggplant and silver (WGSNc 2012). We are slowly picking ourselves up and dusting ourselves off after the GFC, thus consumers want to immerse themselves in luxury brands again but ever so subtly and with a social responsibility. This can be seen through Giorgia’s Marc Jacobs bag. This bag is not screaming luxury brand through lavish embellishment or overt logos, but it is trade marking itself by the small gold plaque on the front of the bag. Thus the idea is subtle luxury is inherent (Frankel 20120). So Ladies, don't feel guilty of indulging in a bit of luxury, but remember less is more.